Allagash Wilderness Waterway

Name: Allagash Wilderness Waterway

Location: Northern Maine

Activities: Canoeing, camping, wildlife watching.

Dog-friendly: No

Hours: 9:00a.m.-sunset daily

Season: May-October

Camping: Yes, fees and pre-registration are required.

Fees: There are fees for camping on the Allagash, which can be paid at the North Maine Woods checkpoint.

The Allagash Wilderness Waterway is comprised of 92 miles of lakes, rivers, streams, and ponds that run through Northern Maine. Simply put, it’s paradise to any avid outdoorsman (or outdoorswoman!) hoping to experience the best scenery and wildlife Maine has to offer.

History

Established in 1966, the Allagash has a long and rich history. In the 1820s, Salem Massachusetts businessman David Pingree saw potential in the Northern Maine Woods. He based his timber harvesting business out of Bangor, which was home to hundreds of sawmills. He would harvest the wood and then place the logs in the river where they would float to Bangor to be milled and then shipped (literally) off.

In the 1840s, the timber harvesters needed a way to avoid floating their logs through the St. John River, which was controlled by the British, so they devised a huge plan to reverse the flow of water by raising lake levels and changing the river current to go south. This meant that harvested logs would float directly from the Allagash to Bangor and avoid the St. John River. This was a huge game changer for the timber industry.

Out of necessity, a railroad was built in 1927 from Eagle Lake to the paper mill in Millinocket, which paved the way for other inventions, like the Lombard Log Hauler, created to help loggers move timber without animals or having to build and utilize railroads. The Log Hauler initially ran on wood and could haul up to 300 tons of wood. Eventually, the Haulers were powered by gasoline.

Getting There (Ya can’t get they-uh from he-uh)

Accessing the Allagash isn’t an easy task. Be prepared, leave plenty of time, and share your itinerary with several people. Roads to the launch points are privately owned and maintained by logging companies. I would recommend using the Maine Atlas (maps 61, 62, 55, 56, 49, and 50) to navigate the roads, as cell phone service and Wi-Fi are nonexistent. You’ll also find that there will be checkpoints along the way. These checkpoints help monitor access to the North Maine Woods and stopping to check in/register is required. There are fees for visiting, camping, etc, in the North Maine Woods.

Camping

There are a whopping 81 campsites along the Allagash Wilderness Waterway. All of the sites are marked with signs to help make finding them easier. Every site comes with a table, tarp poles, a fireplace, and an outhouse. Campfires are allowed in the fireplaces and must be put out before vacating the site. Water should be boiled, filtered, or purified. Remember that the Allagash follows carry in/carry out principles. Failure to follow these simple rules will result in a stampede of Moose chasing you out of our freakin’ awesome state. No, i’m only joking. But you will have to answer to whichever Game Warden is on duty.

Canoeing

Canoeing is definitely the most popular activity along the Allagash. Inexperienced and/or first-time paddlers should not make the Allagash their first paddling experience. The waterway is home to falls, rapids, dams, and other dangers that need to be taken seriously. There are several options for launch points. To read more about canoe trips and launch options, visit www.mainenorthwoods.org. Their website offers a plethora of information that is super useful when planning a trip to the North Maine Woods.

Our Experience

We were only visiting for a day paddle, so we decided to launch our kayaks from the launch between Chamberlain Lake and Telos Lake, to the right of Chamberlain Bridge. First, we checked in at the Telos Checkpoint, where we got maps and brochures of the Allagash. Then, we checked in at the Chamberlain Lake ranger camp before launching our kayaks. We were able to unload all of our stuff at the launch, but then we had to move our car down the road into a larger parking lot. After parking the car, we paddled around Telos Lake for a few hours and pulled up on the West shore to enjoy a cozy, freeze-dried meal and a couple hard ciders. After lunch, we made our way back to the boat launch. During our paddle, we enjoyed gorgeous scenic views of several mountains in and around Baxter State Park. We visited in October, and we were the only people out on the lake. Several cars passed over the Chamberlain Bridge, but the lake itself was extremely quiet.

The Allagash Wilderness Waterway is a welcomed escape from fast-paced life and social responsibilities. It’s beauty, tranquility, and wildness are unmatched in every manner and something every person must experience for themselves.

Happy, exploring, friends!